With less than six years remaining to meet the deadline to limit global warming to 1.5 degrees Celsius, conforming with the Paris Agreement, it is imperative that the fashion industry accelerates its efforts to prevent further damaging impacts of climate change and restore our planet. The climate crisis is upon us now – 2023 was announced as the hottest year on record, and extreme weather was identified as the top risk to trigger crisis in 2024 in the Global Risks Report presented by the World Economic Forum.
It is estimated that the fashion industry’s annual contribution to global greenhouse gas emissions ranges between 1.8% and 4%, with an estimated 70%stemming from scope 3 upstream activities that rely primarily on non-renewable energy sources including petroleum, gas, oil, and coal. Resource stewardship is therefore an urgent priority in fashion’s transition to a net positive industry.
Commitments to Progress
With brands, retailers, and producers increasingly setting emission reduction goals, the will to progress is evident. The majority of respondents to the Fashion Industry Target Consultation reported that they have set targets to halve emissions by 2030 and reach net zero by 2050, with 93% of brands and 89% of producers already measuring progress. Over 400 apparel companies have commitments or approved science-based targets through SBTi14. All Sustainable Apparel Coalition members, representing approximately 50% of the apparel and footwear sector, were expected to adopt SBTs in 2023. Moreover, all signatories of the UN Fashion Charter are expected to publicly report annual GHG emissions and other climate-related information as a core compliance requirement to enhance transparency and accountability.
Despite the demonstrated commitment, compliance is an ongoing challenge, and emissions continue to rise. To date, less than half of active Fashion Charter signatories are compliant with setting climate targets needed to limit global warming to 1.5°C. Accelerated progress is required at manufacturing level (scope 3), where the majority of emissions are generated, with many manufacturing processes still disproportionately relying on coal and other fossil fuels. However, many production countries face systemic, political, and infrastructural challenges in transitioning to renewables from lacking infrastructure.
Moving from Ambition to Action
A multitude of solutions are needed to decarbonise the fashion industry’s value chain fully, from adopting renewable resources to, specifically, the transition away from the use of coal in textile mills and manufacturing facilities. Changing the industry power supply to 100% renewable energy across all processing stages would make the biggest single contribution to CO2 reduction and require infrastructure solutions at scale. Brands cannot affect this change alone, proactive industry participation in collective financing and implementation will be critical to facilitating rapid decarbonisation at scale.
To address this challenge, Global Fashion Agenda, Copenhagen Infrastructure Partners (CIP) and international fashion companies BESTSELLER and H&M Group intend to develop the first offshore wind project in Bangladesh, a project with the potential to significantly increase the availability of renewable energy in one of the fashion industry’s most important manufacturing countries.
The offshore wind project is currently in early-stage development by CIP in collaboration with a local partner Summit Power. If development is successful, operations are expected to commence in 2028. The wind park will have an approximate capacity of 500MW, making it the first utility-scale offshore wind farm in Bangladesh and will help the country reach its goal of supplying 40% of the nation’s power from renewable sources by 2041. The project is expected to create job opportunities, stabilise energy supply, and reduce emissions by approximately 725,000 tonnes annually.
Initiated by GFA during a roundtable meeting at Global Fashion Summit: Copenhagen Edition 2022, this initiative is one example of how the industry can collaborate to address barriers and implement solutions that can unlock the next level for the industry.
GFA is calling for stakeholders in the fashion industry and beyond to come together and engage in facilitating renewable energy solutions. Get in touch at impact@globalfashionagenda.org to find out more.
Global Fashion Agenda (GFA), is pleased to announce that Holly Syrett has been promoted to the role of VP Impact Programmes & Sustainability. In her new role, Syrett will be dedicated to accelerating GFA’s impact to support the transition to a net-positive fashion industry.
Working in close partnership with the Federica Marchionni, CEO and Jonas-Eder Hansen, COO, Syrett will work to shape the sustainability agenda, drive GFA’s impact programmes and publications, and ensure strategic engagement with key industry stakeholders and partners.
Syrett will continue to lead GFA’s Publications and Impact Programmes team to further translate GFA’s ambitions into actions through the implementation of impact programmes that address social and environmental barriers in the industry. In addition to developing new projects, Syrett will lead the expansion of the Global Circular Fashion Forum – which spurs collective and local action in textile manufacturing countries to scale the recycling of post-industrial textile waste. Syrett will also drive the collaborative efforts surrounding the Renewable Energy Initiative which aims to significantly increase the availability of renewable energy in key manufacturing regions like Bangladesh.
Furthermore, as VP Impact Programmes & Sustainability, Syrett will oversee the development of GFA’s trusted thought-leadership publications including the Fashion CEO Agenda and GFA Monitor as well as the creation of future tools and guidance to educate and mobilise the industry.
Syrett was formerly Director of Impact Programmes & Sustainability at GFA. She joined the organisation in 2020, bringing 14 years of experience working on sustainability and transparency programmes in the fashion industry for both public and professional audiences. Syrett is a World Economic Forum Global Shaper Alumni, Climate Reality Leader and she holds a BA in Fashion and Branding from the Amsterdam Fashion Institute. As part of the Global Shapers’ Community, she co-founded the Shaping Fashion movement that is active in 50+ cities worldwide.
This article is a contribution from Next Gen Assembly 2023 Member, Sanjana Pimoli.
As we ease into a new year, it is important to pause and reflect on how the fashion industry has evolved over the past 12 months and ask the most important question, as an industry, are we collectively moving towards a net positive, circular, and regenerative economy?
In 2023, we witnessed the Earth’s hottest year ever recorded in human history. The fashion industry not only significantly contributes to climate change but is also highly susceptible to its effects given fashion’s relationship to raw materials, infrastructure security, and labour productivity. The past year has demonstrated glimpses of hope that our industry can abate its environmental footprint and lead important conversations on the enablers and challenges on our journey towards decarbonisation.
Discover an annual industry sustainability wrap-up through the lens of a Next Gen voice:
Policy and Legislation
Policy efforts globally, particularly in the European Union and the Americas, have materialised as enablers to deliver change in the fashion industry. From the EU Strategy for Sustainable and Circular Textiles and the upcoming Chilean Circular Economy Strategy for Textiles (2023), to the New York Fashion Act, the forthcoming legislations are aiming to uphold human rights and environmental sustainability in the industry. The impact of these policies could have a ripple-effect, crossing national boundaries and impacting manufacturing countries. It is essential to work in parallel with these manufacturing countries to support the policy transition.
In March 2023, the EU Proposal for a Directive on Green Claims was set out, in a bid to prevent companies making unclear and unsubstantiated environmental claims i.e. ‘greenwashing’. The proposal shows that it is necessary to find a balance between compelling storytelling and accurate facts while building communication outreach for any sustainability initiative or project. During this critical time, resources such as the Sustainable Fashion Communication Playbook, co-published by UNEP and UN Climate Change, provide guidance on how to align consumer-facing communication across the global fashion industry with sustainability targets.
Better Wage Systems
The fashion industry is a major employer, the majority of which are women, racial minorities, and other historically marginalised groups. Pay inequality is common throughout the global economy and the fashion industry is no exception. While many brands are making strides to promote fair compensation and living wages throughout their value chains, often in collaboration with NGOs and multi-stakeholder initiatives, the wage gap between average minimum and living wage estimates is increasing – up 3.5% since 2022 to 48.5% in 2023 according to The Industry We Want’s wage metric. The global economic crisis and price competition at supplier level have likely acted as factors to this increase.
Several legislative initiatives are shaping the path toward a more transparent and equitable future when it comes to wages. The proposed ongoing federal legislation in the United States, the Fashioning Accountability and Building Real Institutional Change Act, will not only seek to enforce hourly wages for garment workers, echoing California’s Garment Worker Protection Act (2022), but also to introduce joint liability and transparency measures. Meanwhile, the also ongoing NY Fashion Act will promote ethical practices and supply chain transparency, aligning with the goals of better wages. Furthermore, the recently adopted Pay Transparency Directive (2023) mandates transparency in pay levels, career progression, and workers’ right to pay information. Though despite these legislative efforts, many workers still lack fair compensation and a living wage. Key obstacles include but are not limited to the reluctance to raise wages due to price-competition, limitations of current legal and voluntary measures, and slow adoption of fair labour costing. Collective action on better wage systems will be crucial to ensure a just and equitable future for millions of garment workers.
Biodiversity
The fashion industry and biodiversity are intrinsically linked. Cotton for our t-shirts and dyes that colour our clothing all stem from the Earth’s natural resources. Yet, the industry’s growth has led to unintended negative consequences such as deforestation, soil degradation, and water and microfibre pollution.
The launch of Science-Based Targets for Nature (SBTN) marks a crucial turning point. SBTN sets ambitious, measurable objectives for businesses to conserve and restore our natural world. Kering and H&M Group are among the 17 global companies piloting the first science-based targets for nature, which aim to align corporate efforts around nature conservation with business strategies to secure a healthy and resilient world. This could be a pivotal point in redefining fashion’s relationship with nature. For our industry, this translates to concrete steps like embracing lower impact materials, supporting regenerative agriculture, and minimising water and chemical footprints.
Decarbonisation and Resource Stewardship
Decarbonisation, phasing out coal, and incorporating renewable and carbon neutral sources of energy is a priority for the fashion industry. In 2023, Global Fashion Agenda (GFA), Copenhagen Infrastructure Partners (CIP) and international fashion companies BESTSELLER and H&M Group announced their intention to develop the first offshore wind project in Bangladesh, a project with the potential to significantly increase the availability of renewable energy in one of the fashion industry’s most important manufacturing countries. To meet the growing demand for renewable energy, we need strategic collaboration, risk sharing, and long-term commitments between brands, suppliers, non-profits, governments, and research organisation. A future where fashion thrives in harmony with the planet is a future worth pursuing and a future we envision.
As we step into 2024 and reflect on the last year, we’ve seen glimmers of hope – regulations taking root, innovation scaling, and successful projects materialising based on collaboration.
However, as an industry, now is the time to act together. Later is too late. We need to ensure that a just transition is central to our decarbonisation strategy so that all stakeholders across the supply chain, such as farmers, garment workers, innovators, policymakers, brands, suppliers, waste handlers, are involved. Each stakeholder brings a unique perspective which should be leveraged to create cross functional sustainability initiatives focusing on strategic collaboration, equitable purchasing practices, and risk sharing. We are looking forward to utilising our learnings in 2024 and supporting the industry in collective transformation.
Applications for the Next Gen Assembly 2024 Programme are now open. Deadline for Applications is 22 January, 2024.
In the context of sustainability, the fashion industry stands at a critical juncture—a crossroads where the past informs the present, and the future hinges on conscious, impactful decisions. This year, Global Fashion Agenda (GFA) is commemorating 15 years of Global Fashion Summit (formerly Copenhagen Fashion Summit) and the dedicated patronage from Her Royal Highness The Crown Princess, now Her Majesty Queen Mary of Denmark.
Federica Marchionni, CEO, Global Fashion Agenda remarked, “As Her Majesty Queen Mary embraces her new role, we extend our heartfelt wishes for continued success in fostering positive change and empowering communities. Since 2009, the Queen has made an indelible mark as a true visionary through her patronage of Global Fashion Agenda and unwavering dedication to a more sustainable future, when sustainability wasn’t at all in fashion. We are incredibly grateful for her patronage and inspiring leadership over the past fifteen years”.
Supporting Sustainability Progress
Fifteen years ago, sustainability in fashion was a fledgling notion, seldom mentioned within industry circles. Environmental concerns were often relegated to the side lines, overshadowed by a relentless pursuit of trends and profit margins and social responsibility was an afterthought, buried beneath the allure of fashion. However, HM Queen Mary’s values, paired with the collective vision of GFA and its allies, sparked a paradigm shift—an awakening that propelled sustainability to the forefront of fashion discourse.
The Global Fashion Summit (formerly named Copenhagen Fashion Summit), is today an internationally recognised forum for sustainability in fashion that was initiated by GFA in 2009. The event has become the heart of sustainable fashion, serving as a cornerstone for dialogue, collaboration, and action in core fashion regions worldwide.
A dedicated patron, HM Queen Mary has been present at every Global Fashion Summit in Copenhagen since its inception, where she delivered multiple impactful addresses designed to inspire and activate the leaders from around the world. Explore previous editions of the Summit. here, and watch her most recent 2023 address here.
Over the years, she also demonstrated a curiosity to explore emerging innovations that can provide more sustainable solutions for the fashion industry by regularly touring the Summit’s Innovation Forum.
Beyond the Summit, HM Queen Mary has worked to highlight the nuanced experiences of garment workers around the world. Among the many initiatives, it was remarkable that in 2017 HM Queen Mary embarked on a multi-day visit to Bangladesh to bring focus to women’s economic opportunities in the nation, during which she visited the Auko-Tex Group textile factory in Dhaka where she learned from the workers about their conditions and tasks to increase awareness on the needed changes.
It is also truly inspiring that HM Queen Mary’s sustainable values are conveyed through her own wardrobe. Regularly praised as a style icon, HM Queen Mary honours sustainability by re-wearing outfits and embodying a circular approach to dressing. Just one example of this is how, at the Summit in 2018, she wore a green embroidered skirt which she has since repeatedly worn and repurposed on multiple events. Most recently, she attended Queen Margrethe II’s New Year’s Gala in a timeless burgundy gown that she has worn at six other esteemed occasions. In addition, she is celebrated for her efforts to wear vintage clothing or accessories in different ways, injecting a new life into pieces rather than discarding them.
This unwavering commitment to sustainability extends beyond fashion, resonating with her work as President of WWF Denmark and her advocacy for health, gender equality, and the empowerment of women and girls. Last year, HM Queen visited both Sydney and Tamil Nadu to focus on sustainability and the transition to greener energy in the regions. During her visit to the South Pacific in 2023, HM Queen Mary shed light on the plight of Pacific Island nations grappling with the adverse effects of climate change – witnessing first-hand the aftermath of climate disasters and the challenges faced by coastal communities due to rising sea levels.
The Evolution of the Industry
The 15-year journey embarked upon by GFA during HM Queen Mary’s patronage has been multifaceted, encompassing diverse initiatives intended to catalyse collective action.
In addition to hosting the flagship Global Fashion Summit in Copenhagen, the forum was developed to be hosted in key locations in Asia and America to influence even more fashion stakeholders around the world. GFA has also regularly published core guidance for fashion leaders through its Fashion CEO Agenda and GFA Monitor reports and introduced new impact programmes, such as the Global Circular Fashion Forum, which spurs local action in textile manufacturing countries to scale recycling of post-industrial textile waste.
Most recently, GFA instigated a collective investment from the fashion industry to significantly increase the availability of renewable energy in Bangladesh – one of the fashion industry’s most important manufacturing countries. The initiative will support the first utility-scale offshore wind project off the coast of Cox’s Bazar, Bangladesh, to help the country in reaching its goal of supplying 40% of the nation’s power from renewable sources by 2041. The project is expected to contribute to substantial job creation, stabilise energy supply, and reduce emissions by approximately 725,000 tonnes annually.
The landscape has therefore transformed significantly over the past decade and a half. Today, sustainability is not merely a buzzword; it is a key pillar in fashion’s ethos. Conscious practices are beginning to pervade design studios and boardrooms alike, heralding a new era where innovation converges with ethical responsibility. The emphasis has shifted from mere compliance to a palpable desire for change, where brands are striving not only to minimise harm but to actively contribute to a regenerative industry.
The strides made in ensuring Respectful and Secure Work Environments, Better Wage Systems, Resource Stewardship, Smart Material Choices, and Circular Systems are evident. From improvements in safety standards across manufacturing regions to a surge in commitments for emission reduction, recycling, and preferred materials, the industry has shown commendable progress.
The approaching Copenhagen Edition of the Global Fashion Summit in May 2024, themed ‘Unlocking The Next Level: 15 Years of Activating Impact,’ will stand as a testament to not just the progress made but the milestones yet to be achieved. It is a platform where dialogue transcends rhetoric, where collaboration sparks innovation, and where actions resonate louder than words.
The journey to meet the 2030 and 2050 targets urgently demands acceleration and scaling of efforts. The recent findings from GFA’s Fashion Industry Target Consultation shed light on both accomplishments and areas demanding increased focus. While progress has been made, significant gaps persist, emphasising the need for unified action and heightened collaboration across the industry spectrum.
The legacy HM Queen Mary has cultivated during the 15 years of patronage emboldens GFA to strive for a fashion industry that not only thrives creatively but also champions sustainability as its guiding principle.
“In the spirit of innovation and collective action, GFA stands resolute in its commitment to shaping a future where fashion is not just an expression of style but a testament to stewardship—a harmonious blend of creativity, conscience, and compassion – values which have all been embodied by HM Queen Mary during her time as our Patron,” said Federica Marchionni.
With deadlines for the pledges made over the previous 15 years looming, the industry must now implement actions that ambitiously address societal and environmental impacts and challenge the paradigm. The industry must unlock the next level and pave the way for a fashion landscape that transcends trends and leaves a legacy of positive impact for generations to come.
Image 1 – HM Queen Mary speaking at Global Fashion Summit: Copenhagen Edition 2022
Image 2 – HM Queen Mary at the World Economic Forum with GFA in 2019
Image 3 – HM Queen Mary speaking at Global Fashion Summit: Copenhagen Edition 2019
Image 4 – HM Queen Mary touring the Innovation Forum at Global Fashion Summit in 2022
Image 5 – HM Queen Mary meeting with GFA CEO, Federica Marchionni in June 2021
Image 6 – HM Queen Mary and GFA CEO, Federica Marchionni, at CFS+ 2021
The fashion industry has gradually been amplifying its presence at COP, but historically has not received the same level of attention as other sectors. This year, the industry was certainly more prevalent on the agenda, but often isolated from cross-sectorial discussions, and the programme was still not indicative of the substantial role fashion plays in influencing climate change.
Global Fashion Agenda (GFA) continued its commitment to advocate for the importance of the fashion industry on the COP agenda. Explore just some of the learnings and considerations for fashion from COP28 below.
Collective Action for Decarbonisation
On 13 December, representatives from nearly 200 countries approved a global pact that explicitly calls for ‘transitioning away from fossil fuels’. What immediately preceded this historic agreement was two weeks of intense negotiations, presentations, activations, and discussions from some 85,000 participants at COP28 in Dubai – the largest COP to date. This agreement was, however, announced during the hottest year on record – which has been fuelling extreme weather events around the world – nearly 30 years after the first UN climate summit.
Despite the significance of this overdue announcement, many are left feeling disappointed by the compromises and loopholes contained in the latest text. Language around a complete ‘phaseout’ of fossil fuels was challenged and instead the text calls on countries to accelerate a global shift away from fossil fuels this decade in a ‘just, orderly and equitable manner’.
In light of this urgency to transition away from fossil fuels, fashion industry decarbonisation must be prioritised. Proactive industry participation through equity investment in new power generation capacity is critical to this facilitating cost-effective and rapid decarbonisation.
At COP28 on 5 December, GFA, Copenhagen Infrastructure Partners (CIP) and international fashion companies BESTSELLER and H&M Group revealed a financing mechanism to support the development of the first offshore wind project in Bangladesh. This project has the potential to significantly increase the availability of renewable energy in one of the fashion industry’s most important manufacturing countries. GFA initiated the companies’ commitment to invest and is now working to onboard other fashion brands to co-invest in the wind plant and potentially future energy projects. The project was highlighted during a session on collective financing at COP.
Read more about the project here.
Aligned Targets and Available Solutions
Today, there is a wealth of information that can help the fashion industry become more sustainable but, with so much information, it can be challenging to identify which actions to prioritise and the best way to implement them.
On the first day of COP28, GFA released the 2023 edition of The GFA Monitor — a report to guide fashion leaders towards a net positive fashion industry. The second GFA Monitor has been updated to include the latest guidance and insights from over 25 industry organisations in one cohesive publication – providing a converged overview of clear actions to take, credible tools, solutions, and proven best practices from pioneering industry practitioners that can be implemented today.
For the first time, the report includes new data insights drawn from over 900 industry participants in 90 countries of the Fashion Industry Target Consultation (FITC), which indicated a very positive sentiment from participants, but action and positive impact from that action is yet to be measured. Overall, the data reveals that the majority of the participants supported industry alignment on the 27 action areas proposed in the consultation and remarked that they are actively engaging with the industry to drive progress in the respective areas. The report further illuminates the level of industry ambitions per priority and the areas where more aligned action areas are needed.
Discover the findings and download the report here.
At COP28, GFA, in collaboration with UNFCCC, hosted a GFA Assembly discussing the industry’s progress towards a net positive future, spotlighting The GFA Monitor report. Key Sentiments form the roundtable included the need to develop an inclusive and holistic approach to ensure meaningful dialogue with all stakeholders, from policymakers and youth representatives to local communities and manufacturers, and to anchor actions in sustainable development. The panel also stressed the multifaceted nature of sustainability, considering not only carbon reduction but also waste management, end-of-life cycles, social justice, and the impact on workers’ rights, gender, and racial justice.
Watch the session on-demand here.
Material Innovation
One of the key pillars of GFA’s Fashion CEO Agenda framework is ‘Smart Material Choices’. Fibre production and consumption has substantial implications for people and the environment. Industry practices not only affect ecosystems, but also put farmers’, communities’ and workers’ well-being at risk. Fashion businesses and enabling stakeholders such as policymakers must collectively support an industry-wide transition towards preferred raw materials, scaled innovation and slow growth in annual production and consumption of finite materials.
During COP28, Textile Exchange released the 2023 Materials Market Report which helps inform the textile industry’s efforts to reduce emissions associated with raw material production in line with a 1.5-degree temperature rise pathway. The report shows that global fibre production increased from around 112 million tonnes in 2021 to a record 116 million tonnes in 2022. This is expected to grow to 147 million tonnes in 2030 if business continues as usual.
Fashion Designer, Stella McCartney presented ‘Stella McCartney’s Sustainable Market: Innovating Tomorrow’s Solutions’ concept at COP28. The exhibition showcased over 15 solutions in material innovation highlighting regenerative agriculture and bio- and plant-based alternatives to plastic, animal leather and fur, and traditional fibres. The space itself was 3D printed with PURE.TECH carbon-absorbing materials, which is said to actively remove harmful particles from the air.
Discover a curated selection of leading industry solutions in Global Fashion Agenda’s Innovation Forum here.
Loss and Damage Funding
The Loss and Damage fund agreement was seen as a major milestone at COP27 last year, but it was unclear how the promise would be fulfilled. On the first day of COP28, Parties reached an agreement on the operationalisation of the fund and funding arrangements. So far, $700m has been pledged to the loss and damage start-up fund, which will aim to keep up with the rising costs caused by extreme weather and slow-onset disasters in the countries most vulnerable to the climate crisis.
However, this sum is the equivalent of less than 0.2% of the irreversible economic and non-economic losses developing countries are facing from global heating every year. Plus, it is merely dealing with the symptoms as opposed to the cause of climate catastrophe. The root of the problem must be resolved to prevent the need for loss and damage.
The fashion industry must also work to compensate the people it negatively impacts and prioritise reducing these consequences from the outset.
Policy’s Potential
If COP signalled one thing for fashion, it reaffirmed the power and potential of policy and legislation to transform the industry. The momentum from COP28 shouldn’t wane but instead fuel ongoing conversations, spur tangible policy engagement, solidify commitments, and above all, initiate immediate actions for a transformative pathway ahead.
A resounding message for all industries is the importance of cross-sectorial alliances, which were notably lacking for fashion on the COP agenda. Fashion is inextricably linked to a number of global industries and transformative progress is made even more challenging to implement without meaningful collaboration. It is time to break down silos, enable impactful partnerships, and drive progress on a greater scale.
GFA extends solidarity and gratitude to the activists, youth representatives, Indigenous Peoples, civil society members, Small Island States, and all of those who worked tirelessly at COP to amplify crucial messages on the agenda for the prosperity of our planet and its communities.
In a world driven by fast-paced trends and disposable cultures, the fashion industry is at a critical juncture. In the quest for pathways towards sustainability, we often rely on tools that primarily focus on technological innovation. Even if technology is important, solutions are frequently segmented and built on top of a system that inherently understands our ecosystems as mere resources – not as the wise teachers that they are. How can technology save us if the very root of how we got here remains unchanged?
We sometimes forget that the answers we are searching for are already here and have been for millions of years – under the authorship of the most underestimated intelligence: Mother Nature.
If we look at natural ecosystems, there is so much that the fashion industry can learn from. For example, what can fashion learn from understanding the closed-loop system in nutrient cycles? The nutrient cycle, also known as the biogeochemical cycle, describes the movement and exchange of nutrients in the environment, which are essential for the growth and survival of organisms. What can fashion learn from the four main stages involved in this process?
Absorption and Assimilation
Trees absorb nutrients from the soil and atmosphere through their intricate root systems. In this dance of symbiosis, assimilation happens. Plants absorb ammonium and nitrate, which are then converted into nitrogen-containing organic molecules. Organisms like fungi and certain bacteria help create these organic compounds from inorganic nitrogen compounds already present in the environment. In this exchange, raw materials are repurposed organically, with no waste.
What if the fashion system understood raw materials through this lens? How can the process of reforming a natural resource to become a fabric fibre be completely circular, with no waste? What if waste materials from one stage of production are used as inputs for another? By recognising the importance of circular loops, certain fabrics would no longer be central to the fashion system.
Internal Circulation
For optimal growth and function of a natural ecosystem, the absorbed and assimilated nutrients are continuously regenerated and stored in forms available to the plants. The nutrients circulate through the vascular system of trees and are evenly distributed to diverse parts such as leaves, branches, stems, and roots. This is an excellent example of the interdependence of the nutrient cycle. The process of the input and output of nutrients is not linear, but rather in constant circulation.
Reimagine a fashion value chain that embodies a balanced distribution of resources, meaning that all stakeholders — from garment workers to consumers— have an equal voice at the table.
Rather than a hierarchy of power and wealth, every step of the value chain has access to fair wages, safe working conditions, and decision-making authority to contribute to the long-term viability, sustainability, and success of the fashion system. For example, decisions for certain materials and designs are not simply defined by a designer and a marketing department but rather depend on each part of the fashion system. How is the harvest for raw materials? What stock already exists in the factories? What fabrics can be reused from waste piles? In this way, the nutrient flow ensures that all parts of the cycle – the leaves, the roots, the tissue – are continuously fed, rather than deprioritised for other organisms.
Consumption
In the nutrient cycle, a delicate balance of substances is important for maintaining life. Consumption is essential, however, if you take too much and deplete resources, the scale is tipped. Excess within nature cannot be sustained. Take the production of nitrogen for example. Without it, plants cannot produce amino acids, which they need to grow muscles, tissue, plant cells, etc. However, with too much nitrogen, plants produce excess biomass, such as stalks or leaves, and not enough root structures. When excess nitrogen builds up, it can also drain from the soil into underground water sources, leading to a process called eutrophication. This occurs when too much nitrogen enriches the water, causing excessive growth of algae. This causes phytoplankton blooms, turning rivers bright green, leading to ‘dead zones’ that do not have enough oxygen to support most life forms in a river.
The fashion systems output has become an algae bloom. The push for more and more, the constant need for new, without enough time and resources placed to use and reuse what has already been made, has brought us to a ‘dead zone.’
Between 2000 and 2014, clothing production doubled, and consumers began buying 60 percent more clothes and wearing them half as long as they once did. Three-fifths of all clothing is estimated to end up in landfills or incinerators within a year of production. The fashion system is literally choking our natural ecosystems, and subsequently people. To mimic a closed-loop nutrient cycle, the fashion system must regain a balance between producing and consuming.
Decomposition
During decomposition, organic matter is broken down and nutrients are released back into the environment in a form that can be readily absorbed by plants and other organisms. Decomposition is carried out by bacteria, fungi, and other decomposers, which break down organic matter into simpler compounds. In this way, nutrients are released back into the soil in a form that can be readily absorbed by the trees’ roots. This completes a vital loop, as the tree’s own organic matter becomes a source of nutrients for future growth.
More investment and attention is needed in the fashion system to find ways to mimic the role of decomposers.
Instead of clothing sitting in a landfill, how can we begin to imagine new ways to reuse these materials, to completely break them down and return them into our ecosystem? Critical to this question is understanding that the nutrient cycle is not linear but cyclical and regenerative.
To better understand decomposition, designers must design with end-of-life in mind. How can clothing become a source of nutrients for future growth? Biodegradable materials, circular designs, and regenerative agriculture practices could give us some hints.
Conclusion
Nature is our greatest teacher. If there is one lesson from the nutrient cycle that fashion can learn from, it is this delicate dance of balance. Symbiosis with our environment can only occur if we understand nature, not as an infinite well of resources, but as a process of give and take.
Monoculture farming, excessive irrigation, heavy use of chemical fertilisers and pesticides, and an overwhelming production and disposal of textile waste lead to nutrient depletion in ecosystems, affecting the growth and productivity of our soils. On the other hand, a closed-loop fashion system functions as a regenerative ecosystem, not simply focused on creating less, but creating practices that nourish our ecosystems. Soils represent the nest where our garments are born. By mirroring how this closed-loop system works we understand that it is only through regeneration and circularity that we can begin to weave a tapestry of renewal. It is only by partnering with nature, we can begin to transcend the current vague and fragmented concept of sustainability.
The 2023 Next Gen Assembly cohort came together from across the globe and disciplines to reflect on what change within the fashion industry can look like. Interwoven is for students curious to learn more about sustainable fashion; creatives looking to co-create solutions for an industry in crisis; and commercial leaders eager to work with the next generation.
This article is a contribution from Next Gen Assembly 2023 Members, Ikeoluwa Adebisi and Indira Varma.
Understanding how to make positive changes in the fashion industry starts with learning more about sustainable fashion. A simple saying captures this well: the more you know, the better you can do. As people immersed in a self-guided exploration of fashion sustainability, we have come to recognise the pivotal role of education in this journey—tapping into resources like books, journals, podcasts, and online courses to gain the necessary knowledge. So, if you are on a journey to grasp what sustainable fashion is and how to apply it in your daily life, education is your go-to guide.
Educational Gaps in Sustainable Fashion
But here is the catch—there is a significant gap in our education system when it comes to sustainable fashion. Are schools teaching it? How are they teaching it? Is it something you can learn beyond the classroom? These are the important questions we need to ask if we want to see real changes in the fashion industry.
Sustainable fashion education needs to be available to everyone, not just a select few.
According to a UN report, “Education was deemed to be one of the most powerful tools at hand to drive the transformational changes necessary for sustainable development, but to realise this potential, education systems need to be flexible, culturally sensitive, relevant, and suited to changing people’s values and behaviours.”
Foundations in Climate Education
If children understand climate change early on, it is easier to teach them about sustainable fashion and how to reduce their impact later. Many youths view sustainable fashion as an integral part of their upbringing, advocating for early education on the value and impact of clothing. Aditi Mayer, 2023 Next Gen Assembly Ambassador highlights how the current system of fast fashion is based on the “process of alienation” from the makers and underscores the importance of understanding the making process to cultivate mindfulness towards consumption. By instilling these values from childhood, individuals develop a profound appreciation for clothing, fostering responsible consumption habits.
Igniting curiosity from an early age empowers individuals to take action, driving meaningful change through informed choices and advocacy.
Global Disparities in Fashion Education
Fashion education must be available all around the world, in a way that is adapted to nuanced cultural contexts. According to Monika Murzyn-Kupisz and Dominika Holuj, globally, contemporary fashion education needs a multi-dimensional adjustment to the curricula to reflect the complex nature of sustainability problems. There is work to be done to make sure everyone can learn about sustainable fashion.
Shaping Informal Learning Experiences
Access to formal education is not universal, but informal learning avenues are abound within communities. Parents, neighbours, and local artisans serve as sources of invaluable knowledge on sustainable practices. By tapping into these informal networks, individuals can gain insights into traditional techniques, resourcefulness, and holistic approaches to fashion. Opening our minds to these experiences fosters a deeper understanding of sustainability beyond conventional education systems. This allows us to consider how we, as individuals, can play a vital role in alleviating harm caused due to irresponsible consumption, production, and waste generation. At this juncture, it is essential that we understand our position and roles as a changemakers.
The Collective Responsibility of Unsustainable Fashion
The problem of waste in the fashion industry transcends business and design; it is a collective responsibility. Producers and consumers alike wear clothes daily, making sustainable fashion a concern for everyone.
Learning that this is a universal concern that demands every individual’s contribution is the first step towards sustainability action in fashion.
Improving Sustainable Fashion Education
How can we make things better? Here are some ideas:
- Transform the curriculum: Instead of just adding a few elements regarding sustainable fashion, let us re-evaluate the overall curriculum and focus on learning about new systems that centre people and planet.
- Make it practical: Let’s not just talk about it—let’s do it! Make learning about sustainable fashion hands-on and useful in real life.
- Tell it like it is: The fashion world is not always glamorous. Let us be honest in our lessons about what’s really going on.
- Open for everyone: Sustainable fashion education should be for everyone, not just a lucky few.
- Start early, go big: Teach the basics of climate education from the beginning, and slowly introduce more about sustainable fashion as people get older.
Toolkit for Starting Your Sustainable Fashion Journey
Understanding sustainable fashion can be quite overwhelming and intimidating with the influx of information. Embarking on this journey requires a multifaceted approach, hence, here is a framework of actionable steps you can implement right away.
- Utilise Online Resources: Engage with educational platforms, blogs, and social media channels dedicated to sustainable fashion to deepen your understanding.
- Fashion Values Series on FutureLearn
- GFA online masterclass series
- The GFA Monitor Report
- Sustainable Fashion Communication Playbook by UNEP
- WageningenX: Circular Fashion: Design, Science and Value in a Sustainable Clothing Industry
- Conscious Style Podcast
- Wardrobe Crisis Podcast with Clare Press
- The Sustainable Fashion Glossary by UAL
- @GlobalFashionAgenda on Instagram & LinkedIn
- Contextualize Sustainability: Explore how sustainability aligns with your cultural values and heritage, integrating traditional practices into modern lifestyles. For instance, fundamental sustainability practices like handwashing clothes may be overlooked in formal education, however, these solutions can address various pressing environmental challenges. Simple habits like handwashing not only conserve water and energy but also reduce the carbon footprint associated with machine washing. Recognising and amplifying these practices can significantly contribute to sustainable fashion action.
- Community Engagement: Collaborate with local initiatives, organise workshops, and share knowledge within your community to promote sustainable fashion. You can join the local chapters of international advocacy movements such as: Fashion Revolution, Slow Fashion Movement, and Remake. You can also find local organisations and start community initiatives with your friends.
- Question Consumption Patterns: Adopt a critical mindset towards consumption, questioning the origins, materials, and impacts of clothing before making purchasing decisions. Here are some questions to ask yourself before making fashion purchases:
- Who made it?
- What is it made out of?
- How was is made?
- Do I need it?
- Is this a style that will last and not a passing trend?
- Is it durable and will I wear this piece at least 30 times?
- Can I repair it if it tears/is damaged?
- What will I do with it when I no longer use it?
- Storytelling and Advocacy: Share your sustainable fashion journey, inspire others through storytelling, and advocate for systemic change within the fashion industry. The Next Gen Assembly 2023 members have shared our stories championing sustainable fashion in our report published by Global Fashion Agenda – ‘Interwoven: Fashion Storytelling in the time of a Climate Crisis’ – that can be downloaded here.
Education serves as a potent catalyst for driving sustainable fashion action, empowering individuals to adopt mindful consumption habits and advocate for systemic change. By leveraging existing practices, embracing informal learning experiences, and initiating actionable steps, we can collectively shape a more sustainable future for the fashion industry and the planet.
The 2023 Next Gen Assembly cohort came together from across the globe and disciplines to reflect on what change within the fashion industry can look like.
Interwoven is for students curious to learn more about sustainable fashion; creatives looking to co-create solutions for an industry in crisis; and commercial leaders eager to work with the next generation.
This article is a contribution from Next Gen Assembly 2023 Member, Jesse Boga Madriaga.
Do we really love fashion?
If we love fashion, why do we throw away so many clothes?
If we love fashion, why is love sometimes left absent upstream in the value chain where garment workers tirelessly make our clothes and at times face unfair or hostile work conditions?
If we love fashion, why do our clothes keep harming the environment and depleting our shared natural resources?
On any given day, we find it easy to say that we love fashion. We express it through keeping abreast with trends, scrolling endless feeds for style inspirations, filling our shopping carts, and over time building an extensive wardrobe.
It is easy to find the love for fashion to be so harmless. This is evident in the lighthearted ‘fashion dilemmas,’ often depicted in Hollywood media, that have normalised overconsumption. A familiar scene that comes to mind is the one where the main character expresses frustration at not having anything to wear despite having a cluttered wardrobe at capacity.
With the prominence of these narratives, along with the endless push of consumption messages, it takes a long time for us to understand the true crisis that we face: the one that concerns the detriment of the environment and the adversities faced by the people that make up the fashion industry.
It’s complicated
The human brain is wired to ‘love’ the current fashion system that is all about the new and the trending. In her book The Psychology of Fashion, behavioural psychologist Carolyn Mair said that our brains do not pay attention to the ordinary – they instead focus on the new and unfamiliar. Marketers often take advantage of this by constantly churning out fashion messages that evoke a sense of urgency, hence influencing us to buy.
A popular way that brands engage consumers is by exploiting our tendency to feel left out. The internet refers to this as ‘FOMO’ or ‘the fear of missing out’. This trigger creates a sense of attraction to new items on the shelf and fuels the pace of typical fast fashion cycles. Scarcity marketing tactics that make clothing appear to be limited in quantity also add to this.
True love
The relationship that we have with the clothes that we already own is worth noting when we talk about ‘true love’ for fashion.
Fashion Revolution Co-Founder, Orsola de Castro, maintains that “The most sustainable garment is the one already in your wardrobe.” She further explores this message in her book Loved Clothes Last, which is also a Fashion Revolution campaign message that seeks to address waste and consumption. It calls on citizens to buy less, care, repair, and rewear clothes. The kind of love for clothes being referred to by de Castro is meaningful and transcends materiality, a kind of relationship that supports human life. It is worlds apart from the ‘love’ often expressed through shopping or amassing goods and clothing.
Fashion Critic and Author, Alec Leach, unpacks the give and take involved in our relationship with fashion. In his book The World Is On Fire But We’re Still Buying Shoes, Leach draws inspiration from blogger David Cain who believes that every piece of clothing is a relationship that we get ourselves into, and it makes sense to consider what relationships we maintain with each piece that we own. “You want to be sure the product you’ve bought into your life gives you more than it takes,” Leach wrote in this book. His example centres around how a typical band shirt grew to become a part of his life. But a fancy pair of luxury loafers? Not so much.
Fashion Psychologist, Shakaila Forbes-Bell, poignantly portrayed our relationships with clothing when she said that “Clothes are like memory banks, they constitute a powerful tool that can trigger nostalgia which in turn breeds happiness and lifts your mood.” She recommends cherishing a piece of clothing longer if it brings you back to better days.
Communication also plays an important role in the way that fashion makes us feel. The United Nations Environment Programme’s Sustainable Fashion Communication Playbook provides recommendations for brands to veer from the kind of messaging that suggests consumption is a key to fulfil psychological needs. Having ‘retail therapy’ as a form of self-care or treating yourself to a ‘must-have’ are just some of the consumption messages in question.
Love throughout the fashion system
How else can we express true love for fashion? Apart from personal habits such as making mindful purchases and caring for clothes to make them last, it is enriching to visualise love beyond our wardrobe. We can support policies or replicate existing sustainability practices being done by communities around the world.
In Southeast Asia, for example, the love for fashion is associated with a strong sense of cultural identity.
In Laos, the Lao sinh, the traditional Lao skirt, is an everyday staple at work and school.
In Vietnam, men and women take strong pride in wearing the ao dai during special days at work and school. During Spring and Fall, it is common to pass by parks, streets, and lakes and see Vietnamese people holding photoshoots wearing their national dress.
In the Philippines, the love for fashion thrives in vibrant creative communities which trickles down into sustainability efforts outside the commercial spotlight. Every January, the Philippine Tropical Fabrics month is observed, the state’s effort to engage industry participation in the use of natural fibres and Philippine tropical fabrics like abaca, banana, pineapple, and silk that are processed in the country.
This is rooted in another policy that prescribes the use of tropical fabrics in office uniforms: Republic Act 9242 or the Philippine Tropical Fabrics law, a specific set of guidelines meant to support local textile products and foster a sense of nationalism.
In Davao City, where I currently live and work, government employees wear Indigenous people (IP)-inspired attire to work, following a city ordinance that seeks to protect and promote the culture of the IP communities that thrive here.
Loving fashion can be a difficult relationship to navigate. But for as long as we expand our expression of love beyond consumption, we can make moments with fashion meaningful and a love story worth telling.
The 2023 Next Gen Assembly cohort came together from across the globe and disciplines to reflect on what change within the fashion industry can look like.
Interwoven is for students curious to learn more about sustainable fashion; creatives looking to co-create solutions for an industry in crisis; and commercial leaders eager to work with the next generation.
Current fashion industry value chains mostly rely on non-renewable energy sources. Increasing energy efficiency and the use of renewable sources to divert coal use, curb emissions to air, and limit global warming is crucial. Transitioning to renewable energy across the fashion value chain presents a significant and necessary opportunity for emissions reduction.
H&M Group is focused on investments that further strengthen the availability and usage of renewable electricity and fund the innovation and distribution of technology that will allow the Group to move towards the decarbonisation of its production and logistics value chain.
H&M Group’s Climate Strategy
H&M Group recognises the responsibility as a large company to rapidly reduce its own climate impact as well as make contributions to climate action beyond its value chain. The Group is committed to achieving a 56% CO2e emission reduction by 2030 and net zero by 2040 as defined by the Science Based Targets initiative’s (SBTi) net-zero standard (against a 2019 baseline). H&M Group’s climate work is closely linked to its efforts to reduce impacts on water resources, biodiversity, and land use.
Recognising the complexity and scope of the climate challenge, H&M Group identifies collaboration as a cornerstone of its climate action framework and collaborative financing efforts as a crucial approach to create rapid change at scale. Existing collaborative financing models have the potential to build an ecosystem of solutions. However, further commitment from brands and investors is needed to co-invest and share the financial responsibility of a project and give further alternatives to support suppliers in their decarbonisation journey. H&M Group actively encourages other brands and financial institutions to join its collaborative financing initiatives. Learn more here.
H&M Group x US Apparel: Bidding Farewell to Coal
To achieve H&M Group’s 2030 and 2040 emission reduction goals, significant strides include transitioning to 100% renewable electricity by 2030 and eliminating coal boilers across its supply chain. Since January 2022, onboarding new suppliers with coal boilers ceased. Instead, they collaborate closely with suppliers and local stakeholders to expedite their replacement and finance renewable alternatives. In 2022 alone, H&M Group spent ∼2.6 billion SEK on decarbonisation initiatives, including renewable energy, energy efficiency projects, and increasing the share of more sustainably sourced materials.
H&M Group’s Green Fashion Initiative (GFI) makes funding available to supplying factories to invest in the technologies and processes needed to reduce energy demand and replace fossil fuels. Supported by H&M Group’s GFI, Pakistani denim manufacturer, US Apparel, successfully phased out one of its 10-tonne coal boilers. This transition resulted in a substantial annual CO2e emission reduction of 14,000 metric tonnes – this is equivalent to the carbon sequestered by over 231,000 tree seedlings grown for ten years. Previously reliant on two 10-tonne coal boilers, US Apparel’s Lahore factory continues to significantly improve energy efficiency and reduce its environmental impact, for example via on-site solar PV generation.
Since January 2023, H&M Group’s GFI has 17 approved projects focusing on various aspects of decarbonisation, including solar installation, energy efficiency, coal phase-outs, and electrification. These initiatives have potential to reduce ∼50,000 tonnes of CO2e annually within H&M Group’s supply chain, with an additional reduction of ∼140,000 tonnes beyond its own supply chain.
In addition to this, H&M Group’s team of energy experts provides training to their suppliers on energy efficiency and renewable energy. These experts conduct audits and offer support to identify potential energy efficiency measures.
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Today on Global Recycling Day, Global Fashion Agenda (GFA) and H&M Foundation are thrilled to announce a new collaboration to bolster the efforts of the Global Circular Fashion Forum (GCFF). This three-year partnership will not only infuse substantial funding into GFA’s circularity impact initiatives but will also serve as a catalyst for the expansion of the National Circular Fashion Partnership programmes, currently active in Bangladesh, in development in Cambodia and Vietnam, and set to include Türkiye and Indonesia.
Circular Systems – Where are we today?
Circular systems present an opportunity to decouple economic development from the consumption of finite resources, reduce GHG emissions, and offer dignified, inclusive employment opportunities for workers throughout the fashion value chain. Nevertheless, the circularity gap is widening. In 2023, global circularity stood at 7.2%, down from 9.1% in 2018, revealing that 90% of materials are either wasted, lost, or remain untapped for reuse.[1] Proceeding on the fashion industry’s current linear path, resource flows will become less dependable, and more value will be destroyed.
Scaling existing textile-to-textile recycling technologies could realise approximately 75% of products from recycled materials, resulting in better margins and significant job creation.[2] Yet today, less than 1% of textile waste is recycled into new textiles, representing an annual loss of over USD 100 billion worth of materials.[3]
Establishing alliances to accelerate action:
Launched in 2022, GCFF is a global initiative, established by GFA and supported by Deutsche Gesellschaft für Internationale Zusammenarbeit GmbH (GIZ), which spurs global and local action in textile manufacturing countries to accelerate and scale recycling of post-industrial textile waste. As of November 2023, the GCFF and its National Circular Fashion Partnerships have recycled 10685 tonnes of textile waste (equivalent to approximately 60 million t-shirts)[4], by establishing a cooperative community of some 179 manufactures, 15 waste handlers, and 22 recyclers.
Unlocking the next level:
With the invaluable support of H&M Foundation, continued partnership with the Deutsche Gesellschaft für Internationale Zusammenarbeit GmbH (GIZ), and in close collaboration with its project partners Circle Economy, Closed Loop Fashion, and Reverse Resources, and local stakeholders in the targeted regions, GFA is poised to extend the reach and amplify the influence and impact of GCFF, establishing an effective ecosystem for scaling circularity within the fashion industry.
Together, these organisations will work to realise the GCFF’s overarching vision: to spearhead a long-term, scalable, and just transition towards a fully circular fashion industry. This is to be achieved through a strategic blend of knowledge exchange, multistakeholder facilitation, and mobilising industry commitment.
“This landmark partnership with H&M Foundation will enable Global Fashion Agenda to significantly expand its impact work, which is centred around our vision of a creating net positive fashion industry,” expressed Federica Marchionni, CEO, GFA. “Together we can converge, collaborate, and chart a course towards a socially just circular fashion industry that turns textile waste into value, minimises the production of virgin materials, and aligns with the 1.5-degree pathway.”
By aligning with this vision, H&M Foundation will play a pivotal role in supporting GFA and its partners across three key objectives:
1 – Mobilising the industry to commit to producing and using recycled materials with lower carbon impact.
2 – Facilitating knowledge exchange across countries and regions, with the development of supportive publications and tools.
3 – Enabling the realisation of locally owned and led National Circular Fashion Partnerships inmanufacturing countries, fostering multistakeholder efforts to establish and scale effective national infrastructures for post-industrial textile waste recycling.
Collaboration between GFA, H&M Foundation, and project partners working in the identified countries including GIZ, Circle Economy, Closed Loop Fashion, and Reverse Resources, will continue to drive the project’s implementation in order to achieve shared impact goals.
“Working towards greater circularity and impactful change in the textile industry requires bringing together diverse stakeholders across the entire value chain. This is why we’re incredibly proud and excited to join forces with the Global Fashion Agenda. Together we’re putting the pieces in place to create a self-sufficient infrastructure that endures far beyond the scope of this partnership,” says Christiane Dolva, Strategy Lead at H&M Foundation.
Circular Systems are a critical piece of the puzzle of solutions to achieve a net positive fashion industry. In order to achieve a holistic and systemic transformation, the fashion industry must also prioritise other social and environmental factors including the establishment of respectful and secure work environments, better wage systems, resource stewardship and smart material choices. Download the GFA Monitor to learn more.
Find out more about the Global Circular Fashion Forum and follow our journey.
About the partners:
H&M Foundation
H&M Foundation is privately funded by the Stefan Persson family, founders and main owners of the H&M Group. The H&M Foundation uses philanthropic resources to find, fund and facilitate disruptive innovations, initiatives and research that enable a socially inclusive and planet positive textile industry. To accelerate the transformation, they take on a holistic and open approach – bringing diverse partners together to co-create, and to share learnings and solutions. The H&M Foundation can also provide emergency relief. For more information visit hmfoundation.com.
[1] Circularity Gap Reporting Initiative (2023). The Circularity Gap Report 2023
[2] Global Fashion Agenda (2021). Scaling Circularity.
[3] Ellen MacArthur Foundation (2021). Circular business models: redefining growth for a thriving fashion industry.
[4] Based on the assumption that an average weight of 180g – Ellen MacArthur Foundation (2017). A New Textiles Economy.
