This year, COP29 was hosted in Azerbaijan, the third consecutive petrostate to host the UN climate conference. Expectations for the event were particularly low, marked by the absence of certain key world leaders, major industry players, and climate advocates. While some progress was made—most notably a $300 billion annual climate finance deal—divisions highlighted the need for reform. Despite this, even with fewer voices at the table, the forum offered valuable lessons for the fashion industry and underscored the urgency of coordinated global action.

Time for reform?

The location of COP29 drew criticism, with Azerbaijan reportedly leveraging its role as host to pursue fossil fuel investments and President Ilham Aliyev extolling oil and gas as a “gift from God.” Reports of new gas deals struck during the conference stood in stark contrast to the goals of the Paris Agreement. Critics described the event as a missed opportunity to inspire collective purpose and drive decisive action. The sentiment that COP is due a reform has been echoed by key experts including a former UN secretary general and former UN climate chief.

Faltering on fossil fuel phase out

At COP28 in the UAE, many celebrated what seemed to be a turning point: with nations agreeing to accelerate the transition away from fossil fuels. This year, however, optimism has waned. Fossil fuel emissions are projected to reach an all-time high in 2024, and COP29’s agenda lacked any mention of a global phaseout of fossil fuels. Instead, over 1,700 fossil fuel lobbyists attended the conference, reinforcing the status quo. For fashion, this is a call for meaningful reductions in emissions via targeted investment in renewable energy and a commitment to decarbonising the industry’s supply chain at scale.

Climate Financing 

A major focus of COP29 was the question of climate finance, specifically, how to mobilise resources for climate vulnerable nations to mitigate and adapt to the impacts of climate change. The $300 billion per year in climate finance promised by 2035 marked a historic deal, but many nations, including India, described the amount as “paltry.” The unresolved divisions highlighted how much work remains. Rich nations’ reluctance to contribute more, despite their historical emissions, has left many frustrated.

For fashion, it is clear that waiting for robust global agreements is not enough. The sector must proactively fund decarbonisation and resilience in its supply chain. Fashion brands should develop transparent plans detailing how they will fund and enable the energy transition within their supply chains. This includes ensuring that workers in manufacturing regions have the resources and protections they need to withstand climate-related disruptions.

Youth Advocacy 

One of the standout features of COP29 was the persistent and powerful presence of youth advocates, who underscored the urgency of immediate and equitable climate action. As the inheritors of a planet under threat, young people continue to champion solutions with clarity and resolve, bringing fresh perspectives to a traditionally slow-moving process. This year, youth activists proposed the Universal NDC Youth Clause, calling on governments to integrate youth voices as equal partners in their climate action plans.

Looking to COP30 in Brazil 

Hopes are now pinned on COP30, set to take place in Brazil next year. Brazil’s leadership has already signalled its ambition, announcing significant new targets to reduce emissions through reforestation and sustainable land management. This aligns with the five-year cycle of the Paris Agreement, where countries are expected to submit updated national climate action plans.

For fashion, COP30 represents an opportunity to align its goals with these broader national commitments. This could involve more robust engagement with decarbonisation strategies, from prioritising renewable energy sources to scaling circular business models. The industry’s participation at COP30 should go beyond attendance, with clear and actionable contributions to global climate goals.