Degrowth – a defining concept

Peppered throughout conversations was, once again, the concept of ‘degrowth’, an increasingly popular theme underpinning the industry, though less apparent in practice. Degrowth has been defined by Timothée Parrique as “a planned and democratic reduction of production and consumption in rich countries to reduce environmental pressures and inequality, while improving well-being.” For fashion this means for example, producing less overall and avoiding extractive practices and cheap labour. A recent report by Hot or Cool Institute found that in order to meet fashion’s environmental goals, citizens in high-income countries should only be purchasing five new items of clothing annually, amplifying the need to curb current rates of production and consumption.

Watch our explainer video to learn more about the concept of ‘prosperity vs. growth’.

Whilst this year’s monumental announcement that Patagonia Founder, Yvon Chouinard, and his family have transferred complete ownership of the company to the Patagonia Purpose Trust and the Holdfast Collective was met with near-universal acclaim, some have argued that a stronger degrowth strategy could accompany this for maximum impact. This could follow on from the brand’s infamous 2011 ‘Don’t Buy This Jacket’ campaign.

Policy and legislation – landmark proposals with more on the horizon

Increasingly evident is the salience of policy in incentivising change within the fashion industry. Up until now, much of the industry’s efforts were voluntary, but proposed regulations that materialised during 2022 are set to change this.

This year, the fashion industry came into focus for conversations at COP27, during a clampdown on greenwashing and an announcement that clothing sold in France will require labels detailing climate impact from the end of 2023.

In the European Union, March marked the landmark publication of the long-awaited EU Strategy for Sustainable and Circular Textiles which encompasses everything from design requirements for circularity, digital product passports and tackling greenwashing, microplastics and overproduction.

In the United States, The Fashion Sustainability and Social Accountability Act (or, The Fashion Act, as it’s widely known) is a bill pertaining to New York State which intends to hold big brands accountable for environmental and social impacts. Amendments in November saw stronger commitments around emissions reductions and supply chain improvements. The FABRIC Act of 2022 is a federal bill which proposes major new workplace protections for garment workers and manufacturing incentives in a bid to cement the US as a leader in responsible apparel production.

The hope is that these proposals progress in 2023 and policymakers will follow suit in pushing mandatory measures for companies globally.

Brand accountability – a call for better data and transparency 

Commitments are one thing but measuring progress is also important. This year made clear the crucial need for accurate and robust data to substantiate sustainability claims and credentials. Whilst the focus on finding ‘perfect’ data cannot be allowed to stifle progress, Global Fashion Agenda and other industry actors will continue in 2023 to consider how the industry can accurately measure and communicate sustainability performance and illuminate the data credibility challenges.

Better data is needed to ensure trustworthy traceability and transparency from brands. Taking things even further into the realm of ultimate transparency we saw ‘Mea Culpa’ marketing shine in 2022, with brands acknowledging shortcomings like never before. In the fashion industry this technique has been partly pioneered by Danish label GANNI, now renowned for its vulnerability and openness about needing to do better. Despite being a frontrunner in ‘sustainability’, a quick look at the brands responsibility page and it’s immediately evident that GANNI ‘don’t identify as a sustainable brand’ – a surprising statement perhaps, but it’s much more nuanced than that. This level of upfront honesty can cultivate new levels of trust in its defiance of carefully curated, calculated, and polished brand representations.

Upcoming EU policy it also expected to drive transparency. The substantiating green claims legislative proposal is due to be published in 2023 and is aimed at tackling misleading green claims, i.e., “green washing”, and addresses the shortcoming in existing disclosure rules on sustainability. With the overall mission to make green claims reliable, by using standard methods for quantifying them. Our Partner, The Policy Hub – Circularity for Apparel and Footwear, also released a position paper on Green Claims, underlying their support for trustworthy sustainability communication.

Decarbonisation – considering the whole supply chain

The resounding takeaway from the April IPCC report is that unless we drastically cut emissions,  more specific and focused efforts, say around coral reefs, will be futile. Our Fashion On Climate report revealed that if the fashion industry does not accelerate its response to climate change, by 2030 it will produce around twice the volume of emissions required to align with the Paris Agreement global warming pathways.

Fashion is a major energy consumer and The GFA Monitor outlines that current operations throughout the supply chain mostly rely on non-renewable energy sources, such as petroleum, gas, oil, and coal.

During our session on decarbonization of the value chain, at COP27, Dorte Rye Olsen, Head of Sustainability, BESTSELLER said, “There will not be enough renewable energy for our growth unless we reduce our energy consumption…It’s a two-pronged approach, so insetting and reduction is key.”

Decarbonisation throughout the entire supply chain will become increasingly pertinent in 2023. The supply chain remains the most impactful part of the industry, and strong partnerships between brands and suppliers will aid the much-needed change in this area.

Watch the discussion around decarbonisation that GFA hosted at COP27 here.

Circular Fashion – the resale boom 

According to a recent report by BCG and Vestiaire Collective, the value of the resale market for apparel, footwear and accessories has more than tripled since 2020, with no signs of abating anytime soon. It has been empowering for citizens to participate in a circular economy, though it’s clear that to make real impact these second-hand buys must replace new purchases.

2022 also sparked conversations about fast fashion brands participation in the resale market and whether it actually contributes to the meaningful cultivation of a circular economy. Brands like Zara, Shein, Boohoo and Pretty Little Thing all launched resale platforms this year. Just last month, Vestiaire announced the banning of fast fashion from its resale site, explaining that it would be hypocritical to platform fast fashion.

Resale is not enough if approached exclusively as a marketing opportunity and additional sales avenue, with little to no focus on overproduction and unethical practices associated with core collections. Shifting to a circular system requires a holistic approach, encompassing areas beyond resale. For example, in November Bottega Veneta launched a lifetime warranty programme on handbags, offering unlimited refreshes and repairs as a complimentary service.

Digitalisation – metaverse momentum

Throughout 2022 the influence of the metaverse was undeniable. A report from Business of Fashion found that approximately 70 percent of US general consumers rate their digital identity as important and digital demand for fashion and luxury brands is expected to grow and result in extra sales for the industry that could reach $50 billion by 2030, according to Morgan Stanley.

There are exciting metaverse opportunities being explored by the industry – including metaverse events (April of this year marked the first ever Metaverse Fashion Week), NFTs to authenticate products, games, virtual showrooms and stores and digital clothing and sampling. However, digitalisation isn’t a fail-safe answer. The often-invisible infrastructure of the technology sector is more polluting than some may think.

As we head into 2023, explore the current scope of sustainability challenges and opportunities in the metaverse here.

Social Justice – intersectional approaches  

Solely acknowledging the environmental degradation associated with many fashion industry practices is not enough if we fail to also address the social issues so closely linked to the industry. Sustainability must be understood in all its nuance.

Coined by Kimberlé Crenshaw, ‘intersectionality’ encompasses the broad scope of identities and subsequent interplay of social justice issues that exist, allowing us to recognise that hardships are borne differently for everyone. Social injustice embeds itself in fashion on a multitude of levels.  Read about how the 2022 IPCC report reiterated the importance of intersectionality.

Whilst this year has seen promising shifts in some areas, there remains much work to be done in 2023. Remake outlined six key wins from its 2022 Accountability Report, this progress demonstrates “… that the industry is ready and willing to become more ethical, more just, and more sustainable through tangible, positive actions – even in the face of seemingly insurmountable odds.” We hope to see legislations materialise, bold action from brands, progress with the likes of the Good Clothes Fair Pay campaign and the voices of those most impacted being amplified and listened to.