California is the first state in the U.S. to pass an Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) law for textiles. What political challenges did you face during this process, and which stakeholders did you consult? What were their primary concerns?

As the home of many companies in the apparel and textile industries, California is well-positioned to lead in this area. We expect many brands will engage in the regulation-writing process to help advance a global push to cut waste and climate pollution from textiles.

• Annually, the fashion industry is estimated to contribute between 1.8% and 4% of global GHG emissions annually, depending on the scope of the assessment and whether it includes logistics, retail and the product use phase, for instance.
• Californians throw away 2 million tonnes of textiles a year (3% of what we landfill).

Extended Producer Responsibility laws hold producers accountable for their products’ entire lifecycle, from sourcing materials to reusing materials after customers are done with them. This type of recycling programme incentivises industry to:

• Design with less waste and to create materials that can be more easily reused, repaired, or recycled.
• Provide convenient collection to recover their products from consumers.
• Make sure materials are reused to the greatest degree possible.

We look forward to engaging with industry and interested parties in a rulemaking process to get feedback that will help us to successfully implement the nation’s first EPR programme for textiles and apparel as part of California’s emerging circular economy.

Now that the bill is law, how do you envision its implementation? What challenges do you anticipate, and when do you expect to start seeing the bill’s impact?

California has influenced federal standards for clean water and air. As the most populous state in the nation and the world’s fifth largest economy, our leadership is critical to cut textile and apparel waste while increasing repair, reuse, and recycling of our materials.

Being first creates opportunities to shape and expand circular systems that benefit Californians and the environment. Being the first also means we must lean into the challenges that inherently come with developing new systems that work for both residents and businesses.

Breaking new ground for innovative programmes to reduce waste also requires working with all interested parties to achieve programme success. Ensuring that Californians still have access to the products they need, while we continue to protect our air, water and land takes all of us.

CalRecycle is just starting to plan for implementation of the Responsible Textile Recovery Act (SB 707), with these anticipated actions:

• CalRecycle will approve a producer responsibility organisation (PRO) by March 2026. Producers must join the PRO by July 2026.
• The PRO will complete an initial needs assessment by March 2027 to determine the necessary steps and investment needed to achieve the requirements of the Act.
• CalRecycle will adopt regulations, taking effect no earlier than July 1, 2028.
• The PRO must submit a plan to CalRecycle 12 months after the regulations’ effective date.
• The PRO will begin to implement its programme 3 months after plan approval, and must fully implement its plan within 12 months of approval.

CalRecycle will release more information on the regulatory timeline in the months ahead, including:

• A public rulemaking process, and
• Opportunities for interested parties to help clarify responsibilities.

Do you see other U.S. states moving in the same direction, and what challenges might arise in passing similar federal legislation? Do you foresee a potential harmonisation of EPR policies across the country, especially as states like New York consider similar measures?

California is proud to model needed innovation in extended producer responsibility for textiles and apparel. We are ready to share our experience with other states as we implement this new law, because waste and pollution from textiles aren’t unique to California.

• 87% of materials used in clothing end up in landfills or incinerators.

That is a lot of wasted resources, including:

• 25 trillion gallons of water a year globally
• 2 billion tonnes of GHG emissions a year globally

We are encouraged to see other states considering similar laws because we will have the most impact when there are universal requirements and implementation of new industry-wide requirements.

With the EPR bill passed, what’s next for textile legislation in California? Do you anticipate new bills that will impact the textile industry?

The Responsible Textile Recovery Act is historic legislation, and California is focused on successfully implementing this new programme.

Like other California EPR programmes, the new law requires industry to:

• Create and fund a convenient collection and recycling programme.
• Provide transparency about programme performance with annual reports.

The Responsible Textile Recovery Act has some innovative requirements to:

• Ensure collected textiles are reused, repaired, or recycled by responsible end markets.
• Provide incentives and grants to support reuse, repair, and recycling infrastructure.
• Minimise environmental and public health impacts in the entire textile supply chain, including: Water use, Microfibre and microplastic shedding, and PFAs and other harmful chemicals in the recycling process.