The sustainable fashion lexicon is becoming increasingly complex as practices are being integrated into supply chains around the world. Even for those well attuned to the concepts, the terminology can be difficult to navigate. To mark the launch of Global Fashion Agenda’s Upstream Circularity Podcast, we break down some of the key definitions discussed in the three-part limited series.

Upstream Circularity is a term referring to addressing potential waste and pollution issues at  early stages including the design and production stages of a product’s lifecycle, rather than solely focusing on recycling at the end. By considering waste and pollution as design flaws, upstream circularity aims to prevent their creation from the outset. ​(Ellen MacArthur Foundation)

The Formal Sector includes municipal governments and official entities responsible for conventional solid waste recycling. These bodies often face challenges such as inadequate infrastructure and budget constraints. (​Springer Link)

The Informal Sector, on the other hand, comprises individuals or community enterprises involved in material recovery and waste management activities that are not officially sponsored, financed, recognised, supported, organised, or acknowledged by formal solid waste authorities. The informal sector’s operations, including collection, sorting, and recycling, are crucial for building a circular economy that minimises waste and conserves resources. (​Springer Link)

Mechanical Recycling involves the processing of waste into secondary raw material or products without significantly changing the chemical structure of the material. (Textile Exchange) These materials can then be repurposed to manufacture new products. ​

Chemical Recycling, also called advanced recycling and recovery, refers to several different chemical processes that use existing and emerging technologies that return post-use plastic/material to their basic chemical building blocks for creating a versatile mix of new plastics, chemicals, fuels, and other products. (Textile Exchange)  These can then be reintroduced into manufacturing supply chains.

Post-Industrial Recycling refers to the process involving recycling waste generated during the manufacturing process, such as scraps and trimmings, before the product reaches the consumer.​ (Alcion)

Post-Consumer Recycling entails recycling materials that have been used and discarded by consumers after they have served their intended purpose.​ (Alcion)

Fibre-to-Fibre Recycling is a process that involves recycling textile fibres from used garments or textile waste to produce new fibres that can be spun into yarns and fabrics, thereby creating new clothing or textile products. (Textile World)

​In the fashion industry, feedstock refers to the raw materials supplied to factories and manufacturing processes for textile and fibre production. Traditionally, this includes natural fibres like cotton and wool, as well as synthetic fibres such as polyester and nylon derived from petrochemicals. However, with increasing emphasis on sustainability, the definition of feedstock has expanded to encompass recycled and renewable materials. For instance, companies like Recover specialise in producing recycled cotton fibre from textile waste, thereby reducing the reliance on virgin materials and minimising environmental impact. Similarly, innovations in biofabrication have led to the development of leather-like materials using fungi, offering eco-friendly alternatives to traditional leather. These advancements highlight a shift towards utilising more sustainable feedstocks, such as recycled textiles and bio-based materials, to promote circularity and reduce the fashion industry’s ecological footprint. (Fashion United, Sustainability Directory, BCG)

To find out more, listen to the Upstream Circularity Podcast here. Download the Upstream Circularity Playbook here.